Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Day 40 Bread and Water

An odd clash of cultures, a pilgrimage and Chilean meals.  Breakfast here is leaner than even in Italy - a piece of toast and a cup of coffee, then I'm off for mountainous trekking.  The main meal of the day is eaten around 2 in the afternoon, when I'm walking.  Finally at 9 or 10 in the evening, a cup of coffee and some bread with margarine and jam.  The timetables of daily meals has been out of alignment lately, and I've gone three days now on bread and a few cups of coffee.  Walking through the vineyards, I've only been offered water to drink during the day.  Not one to complain, I explained this predicament to today's parish priest when he asked if there was anything I need, and he's now preparing a proper dinner.

I've reached the South Pacific and dipped my toe in to christen the event.  Some boys were swimming in the crystalline blue surf, loads of people on the beach... the water is certainly inviting, though too cold in this early springtime for full immersion in my opinion.

The mountains plunge right into the sea and the walk involves many big ups and equally many big downs.  Santiago was as far south as the pilgrim route goes, and I'm heading north again, directly into the sun, giving the burn on my face a chance to even out after the month plus of walking west and only over-weathering the right side.  It takes some work trying to figure out the daily routes now; the towns are becoming more widely separated with fewer roads connecting them.  The Atacama Desert is the next big destination, and then the effort to cross it with the stipulations that I don't like walking alongside the highways and I have to find a house or other building to sleep in every 45 to 55 kilometers.  Still hoping to reach Cuzco for Christmas.

Pilgriming remains great!


unadara said...

So glad you are safe, I commented on days walking on the Camino with little to eat until night time, but you are the toughest pilgrim I "know". You walk such long distances, and with such acceptance of what the route throws up. My prayers are with you.

Sheila Phelan Wright said...

Hmmm. Bread and water. Hope you have something tucked away in that small backpack. Maybe a walnut a day.
Snow here last night,no chance of a sunburn today.Let yourself be tempted by a highway route..maybe?
I'll eat some hummus for you.