Friday, November 11, 2011

Day 43 Loving it!

I've just got a sec... finding computers is not so easy...
The ruggedness of the Barbery Coast is incredible; worthy of legs that have walked a thousand miles. Progress is greatly inhibited by two significant factors: first, I'm following 'la piste' -the path of the road being constructed for many years now - beautiful as a earthen footway but within each hour of walking I've gone in each direction of the compass, so serpentine is the coastline, and ascended and descended hundreds of meters/a thousand feet, so mountainous it is. No exageration... my legs, my lungs, and my eyes get a workout - the views are spectacular, hidden coves, caves, beaches sometimes far below, sometimes underfoot. I can easily project my peaceful 21st century thoughts into the minds of pirates of yore and conclude yes, this would make a lovely place from which to launch my maleficence.

Villages are abundant. Fishing boats are pulled onto the beaches, wee goats and donkeys graze the slopes. This is the source of the second inhibitor to progress. The people are so overwhelmingly friendly, it's difficult to proceed. Earnest invitations to come and have some food (still tasty mutton left over from the holiday), sit and talk for a while, drink mint tea, please stay in my house, stay for some days... I was slipping out early one morning before breakfast when one of the boys insisted I have a bite. Another boy was sent into the yard to catch a chicken; two hours later, we were eating skewered morsels over a fire in a terra cotta pot. To sit for a rest and sip of water is to invite the village to join me, goats and all. It's fabulous. No problems, no fears, no dangers... sure, plenty of 'keefer' being smoked in long narrow pipes by most of the men, but I've seen tranquility, not violence from it. Sleeping in a private house has always come with a boy posted outside my locked door; my page for the night ensuring me a sound sleep (as if a pilgrim will have any other kind of sleep). Proud is the boy chosen for the duty.

So sweet the people, so gorgeous the coastline, so few computers (and those with French keyboards°#!@).

7 comments:

ksam said...

Wow, I knew peaking over your shoulder would be incredible! And so it is! Gute Reise!! Karin

Compostelle 2008 said...

I can only imagine the views you are seeing. And the people, so welcoming. All we ever see or hear of that region is violence. What a wonderful picture you paint for us! Bueno Camino my virtual friend.

Michèle (Ottawa, ON) Canada

Compostelle 2008 said...

OMG! I just looked at the region via google earth!

Michèle (Ottawa, ON) Canada

Sheila Phelan Wright said...

It sounds wonderful for you. Glad you are meeting such friendly, open people. Think you bring that out in everyone. Thanks so much for thinking of us back here, and finding a computer here and there to keep us up-to-date on our favorite pilgrim's adventures.
Safe travels. Sheila.

MermaidLilli said...

Are you following the coast or the N-16? Checking it out on Google Map. So much fun following your blog and your travels. I am especially attracted to how the people take you in. How friendly they are!

Anonymous said...

Winter Pilgrim...
United Nations Ambassador at Large???

Walking the earth and spreading good will has to make you worthy of such a position.

I'll check into it.

Safe travels until then.

Amy R said...

Thank YOU for thinking of us, and posting when you can. It is completely delightful to read.